Surrounded by national parks, World Heritage rainforest and the Great Dividing Range, find countless bush walks or hikes within a short distance of Cairns.
Have you ever wondered where the saying “nature is calling” comes from? I hadn’t really thought about it until I heard a wail through the rainforest that I was convinced was a person calling out – cue goosebumps and a small twinge of fear.
Fast forward a couple of hundred metres and it turns out it was coming from two branches rubbing together creating an eerie human-like sound. While I doubt that’s the origin of the term, it cemented a new meaning for me; nature really does call for you. Think of the roaring winds or the cry of birds – nature is constantly communicating with anyone who takes a moment to notice.
While it can be haunting, it can also be immensely exciting and peaceful. Disappearing into the forests and surrounds of Cairns uncovers a world lesser-known – ancient landscapes that are best discovered by foot – and these dramatically beautiful hikes are calling to be explored.
With its diverse wilderness and abundant national parks, Tropical North Queensland is home to many beautiful hikes, waterfalls and swimming holes. It’s important to always follow the advice from Queensland Parks and never venture into out of bounds zones, flooded waters or dangerous areas to prevent serious injury or death.
The highest mountain: Mt Bartle Frere
While it’s heights might not stand up to the famous great peaks of the world, that doesn’t mean it’s not as impressive. As Queensland’s highest peak, standing at 1622m elevation, the walk to Bartle Frere’s summit ventures through thick World Heritage rainforest, across mossy creek crossings and boulder fields culminating with expansive views to the coast and over the Atherton Tablelands.
There are two trailheads that hikers can choose to leave from, Eastern or Western, both including a number of routes or stops. These challenging walks should only be attempted by experienced hikers and it’s encouraged for walkers to break the journey over two days and camp the night. Touted as one of the best sunrise places of the region, you’ll be able to wake fresh and simply walk straight out of your tent for a sunrise you’ll never forget.
Temperatures at the peak are approximately 10º cooler than the coast so if you’re opting to camp, make sure you’re prepared for cooler weather. #TropicalNorthFreezeland
Top Tip: Like many peaks, the summit of Bartle Frere is only visible 5-10% of the year. If you’re after views, plan your hike for when the forecast is clear.
Where: Eastern approach trailhead leaves from Josephine Falls. Western approach leaves from Topaz, Atherton Tablelands.
Highest elevation: 1,622m
Distance: 15kms return (both Eastern and Western)
The black sheep: Lambs Head (Kahlpahlim Rock)
Have you ever disappeared to a place where you feel like you’re the only ones for miles and miles? Follow an old logging trail on a hike that evokes a feeling of timelessness and tranquillity to Lambs Head (Kahlpahlim Rock). On a clear day, you’ll enjoy views over Lake Morris, all the way to the coastline of Cairns, and back over the Atherton Tablelands.
There are two trailheads that take you to the top – the Ridge Trail and Kahlpahlim Rock Trail. The Kahlpahlim Rock Trail is more shaded, traversing through rainforest and crystal clear creek crossings, while the Ridge Trail travels through open forest featuring tall rose gums and casuarina trees, both converging around a kilometre before the top.
Top tip: Cool off at Davies Creek on your return. There are several places you can choose to swim, including at the pool above Davies Creek Falls.
Where: Both trails depart from Davies Creek Road, Atherton Tablelands.
Highest elevation: 1,309m (795m elevation gain)
Distance: Ridge Trail – 9.2km return, Kahlpahlim Rock Trail – 10.8km return
The city views: Glacier Rock/The Douglas Track
A favourite among locals for its ease of access and stunning views, Glacier Rock via The Douglas Track is a challenging but rewarding hike located a short 25 minutes drive from Cairns. The trailhead starts at the popular Stoney Creek swimming hole which is a welcome place to cool off on your return. From here, it climbs through the rainforest, crosses over the famous Kuranda Scenic Railway line, and meanders through the open grassy paths.
You’ll have no lack of views on your way with vantage points of the Barron River and Red Bluff offering ocean views on your way up. The real MVP is the view from the top which peers over the canopy and all the way to Cairns. There’s an open shaded area perfect for a snack to refuel before making your way back down.
Top tip: The Douglas Track intersects with McDonald’s Track 1.2kms before the end. From here, you can take the McDonalds track to Speewah near Kuranda on the Atherton Tablelands (an additional 5.2kms).
Where: Trailhead departs from Stoney Creek in Kamerunga, 25mins from Cairns.
Highest elevation: 488m (440m elevation gain)
Distance: 9km return
The challenge: Devils Thumb (Manjal Jimalji)
If you are looking for fresh air and your own space in Mother Nature, the Devils Thumb (Manjal Jimalji) trail is a challenge worth conquering. Located near Mossman Gorge in Daintree National Park, the hike traverses through a range of terrains, including dense rainforest and a unique coral fern patch. The steep trail reaches an elevation of 1190m and includes a large granite formation known as the “Devils Thumb” at its highest point.
The reward? Sweeping panoramic views of the dense rainforest canopy out to Cape Tribulation, Cape Grafton and Port Douglas.
Top tip: Begin your hike early in the morning at allow at least 9 hours to complete the hike.
Where: Tracks begins at Little Falls Creek in Whyanbeel Valley
Highest elevation: 1190m
Distance: 10.6km return
The multi-dayer: Thorsborne Trail
Get ready for the untamed wilderness of Australia’s largest island national park, Hinchinbrook Island. This 32km three night, four day hike encompasses diverse terrain from mangroves and eucalypt woodlands to rainforest and refreshing swimming holes beneath cascading waterfalls, rugged ranges and isolated beaches.
You’ll need to plan your trip in advance as the number of hikers is limited to a maximum of 40 people on the trail at any one time (largest group size is six) and camping permits must be obtained through Queensland Parks.
Top tip: This walk is fully self-sufficient. You’ll need to ensure you have enough food and water for your journey, and you’ve researched whether any of the creeks will be flowing enough to top up your water supply.
Where: Off the coast of Cardwell, around two hours south of Cairns.
Highest elevation: 260m
Distance: 32kms (one way). Boat transfers need to be arranged prior for pick up and drop off.
The pointy end: Walshs Pyramid
You don’t have to head to Egypt to find pyramids, you’ll find a natural one just 25 minutes south of Cairns. This 6km return trail steeply climbs to the summit standing at 922m rewarding you with incredible views over the patchwork of sugarcane farmlands below as well as down the thick, lush rainforests of the Bellenden Ker range to and towards the Goldsborough Valley.
Allow 4-5 hours to complete this walk. It’s fairly short distance means the elevation gain is quite quick and challenging. Stop off in the town of Gordonvale after for some sustenance at the local bakery or a refreshing drink one at one of four local pubs in the small town centre.
Fun fact: Each year in August is the legendary Great Pyramid Race, a 12.2km race from the township of Gordonvale and back. The current record stands at 1:15:34 set in 2007 by Neil Labinsky, while the women’s title has been held for over 20 years by local runner Anita Appleby at 1:32:06.
Where: Find the trailhead just off the Bruce Highway opposite the Aloomba turnoff.
Highest elevation: 922m
Distance: 6 km return
The convenient hike: Mt Whitfield Walking Trails
Only five minutes drive from Cairns CBD, you’ll enter Collins Avenue, a street shrouded by leafy vines and branches bursting with greenery, creating a rainforest oasis within the inner city suburbs. From here leaves a network of trails traversing Mt Whitfield, also known as the “Arrow” trails, of which you’ll find four: Red Arrow, Blue Arrow, Yellow Arrow (are you sensing a pattern here?) and Green Arrow.
These tracks vary in length and difficulty but the one common factor is that you’re guaranteed a great workout and million-dollar views. There are also trailheads at nearby Aeroglen for the Yellow Arrow, and the suburb Whitfield for the Green Arrow.
Top tip: Use mozzie repellent before embarking on these trails to protect from mosquitoes and midges which are prominent during some periods of the year.
Where: Tracks depart from inner suburbs Edge Hill, Whitfield and Aeroglen.
Highest elevation: 364m (Green Arrow)
Distance: Tracks vary between 1.5–6kms
The waterfall walk: Behana Gorge
No matter the time of the year it is, when you jump into the crystal-clear waters of Behana Gorge, your skin will erupt in goosebumps. Flowing off Mt Bellenden Ker, Queensland’s second-highest peak, the water of Behana Gorge maintains a cool temperature year-round, and is some of the freshest, clearest waters you’ll have the pleasure of swimming in.
The chilly waters are a welcomed reprieve from the undulating trail which finishes at the magnificent Clamshell Falls. There’s plenty of space to spread out, have a picnic or simply float until it’s time to head back home.
Top tip: Test your courage with a Cairns Canyoning, who take you abseiling, cliff jumping, sliding and swimming through some of the lesser-known spots of the gorge.
Where: Just south of Gordonvale, 35mins from Cairns.
Elevation gain: 194m
Distance: 6.6kms (return)
The island walk: Fitzroy Island Summit
Tear yourself away from the peaceful clink of the sea meeting coral beaches for a short while to take advantage of the 360 degree views of rainforest tumbling down to Great Barrier Reef and the isolated mainland coast from the Fitzroy Island Summit.
You have two options to get here; The Summit Track or The Lighthouse Track. The latter can be paired with a trip to the historic lighthouse and you can do a round trip between the two.
Top tip: Pick up a copy of the self-guided walking trail booklet to uncover some of the history of the island. This is free to hotel guests, or cost $4.40 for day visitors.
Where: Fitzroy Island, 45min ferry from Cairns
Highest Elevation: 269m
Distance: Summit – 4km return, Summit + Lighthouse – 4.6km return
The beachy views: Earl Hill
Compared to the other hikes on this list, this one might feel like a walk in the park (pun intended), though rest assured, it still tests the legs and the glutes. Located in Cairns’ Northern Beaches suburb of Trinity Park, this 1km ascent to the summit offers a constant cooling sea breeze with beach views thrown in for good measure.
The track has recently undergone a refurb, so now you can take an additional detour all the way down to Half Moon Bay, or start your walk from the beach. Dogs on leads are permitted on this track.
Top Tip: You can also follow a track that connects to the southern end of Trinity Beach. From here you can continue to walk along the foreshore and stop for breakfast, lunch or a cool drink at a variety of cafes and restaurants.
Where: Trinity Park, Cairns Northern Beaches
Elevation gain: 197m
Distance: Summit Track – 2km return